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Thread: SAMPERS 190E 2.6 Almandine

  1. #1

    SAMPERS 190E 2.6 Almandine


    Long overdue write up of my project car. But here it is.
    In October 2015 I went to Germany to buy an original 190E 2.6 5 speed manual which was already in 'good' condition.
    Couple rust spots (under the battery tray, and under the trunk lid).

    Was a 12 hour round trip which we did 2 week ends in a row. So the seller could turn in his license plate, ...
    Got some 15" bbs wheels with the car as well as the original steel wheels.

    The plans are to have my own ultimate 190 inspired by Brabus and 16V models.

    To achieve that I'll swap with a 2,8 M104 engine. With a standalone ECU to run EFI. (don't like CIS or EZL).
    Make a custom exhaust, modify the throttle 'brick', put 320E brakes on all 4 corners, braided hoses, powerful master cylinder ...
    16V rear seats, 16V side skirts, spoiler and rear bumper. (still on the lookout for those).
    Brabus front bumper with fog lights, and Brabus Monoblock I 16x8 rims.
    Silver Poject camber plates, and camber bars.
    Vogtland 60/40 springs, Koni soft shocks (to be replaced by Bilstein B8).
    Strongflex Polyurethane (rear subframe) bushings.

    Here are the details.

    190 E 2.6
    Date of registration: 16/01/1989
    Paint: 512 U Almandine Red - Metallic
    Interior: 067 A Medium Red
    Motor: 103.942
    Gearbox: 717.435 (single mass flywheel).

    Options from the factory:
    211 Automatic Limited slip Differential (ASD)
    412 Electric sliding roof with tilting device
    240 Outside temperature indicator
    280 Leather Steering Wheel and Leather gear knob
    532 Automatic antenna without radio set
    570 Folding armrest front
    572 Front seat with seat height adjustment
    580 Air conditioner
    583 2 electric windows
    591 green heat-insulating glass
    620 Catalytic converter
    645 Winter tires
    812 Rear-Mounted loudspeakers
    915 Fuel tank with increased capacity

    Made in Sindelfingen, Germany.

    - - - Updated - - -
    Last edited by sampers; 11-03-2017 at 03:18 AM.

  2. #2
    Blackened the faded door handles.

    Had to renew the hood insulation as it was eaten by some kind of rodent (according to the previous owner).

    Cut out an replaced the sheet metal under the battery tray.

    Got a Nardi Personal Fittipaldi steering wheel from my brother.

    Because the read muffler was leaky and you couldn't hear the inline 6 very much I replaced the muffler by a straight pipe with end tips.

    Sandblasted and repainted the valve cover because race car.

    The distributor was oxidised because the camshaft seal was leaking. Due to having an replacement camshaft (because the older ones wear out apparently).
    But they kept the old piece that connects the camshaft to the rotor, which didn't work to seal it properly.

    Got my Vogtland lowering springs.

    At this time I was still living where I had no garage to put the car. So It may have seen it's first snow after 27 years.

    Replaced the voltage regulator.

    Last edited by sampers; 10-31-2017 at 03:30 PM.

  3. #3
    I got the Koni soft orange shocks. Which are not bad, but I'm looking for something a little more sportive.
    Will be buying Bilstein B8 at one point.
    Also got the Silver Project camber plates and arms. The plates are installed, and after some adjusting they now work good.
    The camber arms I will install when I overhaul my rear subframe/bushings/control arms.

    On my 8 hole 15" winter wheels.

    And then I found my Brabus Monoblock 16x8 wheels.Which I test fitted right away.

    Comparison between 195/15-65 and 225/50-16. (Will be getting 225/45-16)

    Found 2 spare center caps. I needed the Gel Stickers anyway, might be looking to find/reproduce them.

    And then this happened.... short circuit in the water jet heaters....
    Right when I was filling up the gas tank, it caught on fire! Still haven't managed to clean off all the powder from the fire extinguisher.

    I made a stealthy looking voltage gauge.

    The defog rear window switch got changed in the meantime as well, because it didn't look right or lit up.
    Last edited by sampers; 10-31-2017 at 03:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Reached this milestone. (had to fix the speedometer beforehand but anyway...)

    Changed the bump stops to amg ones which should reduce bottoming out as hard. (part number 129 323 06 44)

    Changed the front lower control arms with cheap reproduction ones so all the rubbers/balljoint are new;

    But will need to change them again because of these; E320/E420 brakes. For 294x25mm disks They require r129 LCA according to people who did it before me.

    Replaced the front sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones from Siberian Bushings.

    Picked up a rear bench from a 190E with the option to have the 16V/Sportline/this version seats. But these are with the early model black fabric cloth insert.
    I have the complete rear seat, but in this picture you see the difference with the regular 16V karo cloth inserts.

    This is what it says on the part itself...

    Picked up my wheels from the chemical paint removers.

    My first M104 2.8 engine which I cleaned up before taking off the head gasket to find a piston wall scuffed or scratched. Don't know if it can be salvaged without reboring..

    But not to worry, I already picked up another 2.8 M104 engine which looks promising.
    I am now cleaning it up, getting it ready to change all the gaskets (but not the head gasket right away).
    Last edited by sampers; 11-03-2017 at 03:22 AM.

  5. Wow great job documenting everything, also I don't know if its the camera but the paint looks very good! What did you use for the door handles and do have a part number for the bump stops?

  6. #6
    Wow love it and smart on the revised rotor bracket. I think all of us in the US would want cloth seats and a stick in a m103 car.
    1993 190e 2.6 AMG Clone/Almandine
    1990 190e 2.6 / Black
    1997 e320 / White
    2003 Ranger 2.3 16V

  7. #7
    Thanks guys!

    The paint did look awesome when I bought it. Haven't really managed to get the same clean look. Previous owner must have had it detailed I guess.
    There are a lot of rock chips anyway and they were corrected with a brush, so it could be better. But I'm happy with it for now.
    Would love the 16v side skirts and rear bumper in the same color.

    Bump stop part number I believe is 129 323 06 44 as on the packaging in that photo.
    Just used a bumper and trim blackener on the door handles.

    I also like the color of my interior, only the door cards are coming loose at the top, and can't really find anything in that color.
    Have a leather gear knob but the leather is fading and already gone in the middle.

    As for the EFI build I'm going with a standalone ECU. From K-data. It's a german unit that's based on Megasquirt II. Only thing I can't do with it is have all sequential injection.
    The spark control setup I am going to do is wasted spark anyway. With reusing the stock M104 coils and an igniter from Audi. (cheaper than quadspark or building one yourself).

    It has a water resistant housing two nice threaded connectors, and a built in map sensor. (have to put a nipple above the connectors).

    It also has an integrated lambda/O2 sensor controller. for the Bosch LSU 4.2.

    The above mentioned Audi igniter. Has 3 inputs, 3 outputs and a ground.

    New mercedes connectors (2 on the left). For variable cam timing and the resonance flap on the intake.

    Connectors for the camshaft sensor and crank sensor.
    Don't need the Cam sensor input, as I'll use semi-sequential fuelling, But will include it anyway so If I ever upgrade the ECU I can reuse the wiring loom with minor modifications. I have the Turbobandit trigger wheel for the M103 pulley I'll be reusing.

    Since I don't have a m104 throttle body, I got myself a universal one so I get a TPS sensor mounted and could go up a size.
    But I'll have to modify it in some way, because the TB sits to high and don't want the air intake to go through the top of the plastic intake.

    So I'll be making a new wiring loom and set up all engine related controls through the standalone ECU.
    But I'd love to continue to have the ASD, ABS and AC functioning.
    Can anyone point me out, what I'll have to keep or 'bypass' to get there?

  8. #8
    ABS has its own ECU.

    AC is controlled by MAS/Klima relay. In either case you can tap into it for the signal to tell MS AC is on.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by mattmon View Post
    ABS has its own ECU.

    AC is controlled by MAS/Klima relay. In either case you can tap into it for the signal to tell MS AC is on.
    Great news, any idea where I can find a wiring scheme?

    I thought I read from somebody they kept the stock ECU, to keep the fuel pump working. Because it needs a tach signal?
    But I would be able to put that on another new relay, Controlled through MS I imagine?
    I'll have someway of creating a tach signal suitable for the tachometer so I assume would be good to control fuel pump? Or is that only when using the stock relay that you need that signal? Would it be very different from controlling an electric fan?

    In addition to removing the stock ECU I want (hope/dream/need) to remove the OVP relay.

    For the ASD I found this scheme, but I can't read the words which would help to understand I guess.
    Are these items like N47, K1/2, X92 part of a standalone system or are those found in the main ECU?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Sampers, use this -

    That post of mine goes over how to run the stock fuel pump and mas relay.
    1984 2.3 8v Lorinser - Drift/track competition - "Grønne Pige"
    1984 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Sent to Graveyard - "Steve"
    1985 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Daily - "Darkwing"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM 5-Speed - Donor - "Rusty Trumpet"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM Auto - Basket Case - "Phönix"
    1987 2.3-16 NAM VEMS EFI 5-Speed - Track/Canyon - "Dimples"

  11. #11
    You can drive the stock FP by feeding the MAS with a 12V square wave tach signal (green/yellow wire IIRC) but will still have fuel cut at stock RPM. This will also keep your tach gauge working.

    I did that at first on my 103 MS install, but ultimately bypassed the MAS completely by adding a dedicated FP relay in the aux holder near the fuse box.

    All that said, you'll never go wrong following secretmachine's lead.

    I'll post some docs from my install later, I've got some really good diagrams that you might find helpful.

    Edit: here's the diagrams

    1. full harness diagram, simplified.
    I found a few inaccuracies with the wire colors, but it was 95% correct.

    2. A visual pinout guide for the 55 pin harness
    I made this to use as a reference while building my own ECU and harness.
    Very helpful because it's easy to get wire positions confused when mating the ECU to the harness!

    3. FSM MAS relay diagram

    makes it easy to understand how to integrate with the MAS functions
    note the O2 heater, you can use that to run your WBo2 heater!

    4. Spreadsheet I used to build my harness
    Maybe helpful for you planning to build your own
    Last edited by mattmon; 11-03-2017 at 09:04 PM.

  12. #12
    Thanks for that!
    Should help me a lot.
    I think it will be completly clear once I start taking everything apart.

    Thanks again secretmachine for mailing the coil connectors!

  13. #13
    Great thread!

    Where did you got the hood insulation? Mine is also gone, but I can't find who sells them.

  14. #14

  15. #15
    Got my clutch which I'm pairing with the 717.435 5speed gearbox with single mass flywheel and the m104 engine.
    It's a DriveTorque stage 2 clutch. should be good for a 30% increase in power. Which is more than I'll have right now anyway.
    A UK performance shop called Larkspeed sells these clutches which I believe are made inhouse or locally.

    I'm still gathering parts for the standalone EFI build, and I think the ECU has a tach signal that's square wave and won't work with our tachometer?
    So I thought are tacho works with the negative coil signal, but that might be wrong?
    Anyway, I made this circuit to have a signal suitable for a tachometer that is driven by the negative coil signal. Coming from a 3 coil wasted spark ignition.

    The housing is a 12V motorcycle regulator which I ordered in China, then gutted and put my own circuit in.
    If this is the right way to connect I'll embed it in electronics silicone. If anyone knows already what I need to drive the tachometer, please tell me.

    And another little project I'm working on...

    AN-10 fittings for valve cover breather tubes. As I don't wan't the oil in my intake and want to have an air filter on the cold air side.

    I wan't a functional but good looking setup. So the An fittings are great step in that direction. And I wan't a cover that ties in well with the valve cover.
    It's still in the prototype stage. Should look better when finished.

    Dead Straight to Live Wrong

  16. #16
    that breather tube mod looks great, i like your plan.
    1984 2.3 8v Lorinser - Drift/track competition - "Grønne Pige"
    1984 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Sent to Graveyard - "Steve"
    1985 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Daily - "Darkwing"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM 5-Speed - Donor - "Rusty Trumpet"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM Auto - Basket Case - "Phönix"
    1987 2.3-16 NAM VEMS EFI 5-Speed - Track/Canyon - "Dimples"

  17. #17
    I like the project. You're doing some really great work. Subbing
    1985 190e 2.0 8v forged internals, 5spd MT, EFI, 16v interior, sportline exterior, working on the turbo header now

    1986 190e 2.3-16 Nam, 5spd MT, stripped to the bone, I swear I'll start building it into a track car soon, seriously.

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