1986 190E 2.3-16 in NorCal

[secretmachine]

they included some weird poly bush, that looks like a big pineapple slice, which ends up being unusable, at least in a w201. I think, for certain rear ends, it may not apply? I haven't been under a 124 or 129 for a while, might be for them since it's a triple model kit. Also the chassis post on the w201 is not long enough to sit in the metal cup if that big pineapple slice is used, not sure wtf they were thinking, and they never answered my emails about it, though I never called, so there's that.

I installed mine without it, which is the same setup as the oem part and delrin stuff floating around.

[bandeezy]

Thanks for the quick response! Makes sense, the same kit is listed for W124. I'll give calling them a shot tomorrow, otherwise I'll just install it without the pineapples. Just seems weird because it looks to me like the metal part of the subframe would contact the chassis without something between. The stock bushings had little volumes that would separate the chassis from the subframe. Maybe I'm overthinking it...

[Maximb]

This is the response I got from strongflex regarding subframe
Hello,
Subframe bushes could be installed only one way. When you start to fit them you'll see there is no other way.
I just replied about the pineapple piece, might get a response today.

[secretmachine]

yeah, you will for sure see there's no other way when you start to fit them, they're right about that!

[Maximb]

yeah, you will for sure see there's no other way when you start to fit them, they're right about that!

But just like you said, why was the thin circular poly piece sent, and why did they send a flat washer.. those two don't really make sense when you're just replacing the stock units

[bandeezy]

I installed the subframe bushings without the "pineapple". Seems to make sense. Has anyone replaced the bushings on their rear suspension arms? Some of them have metal sleeves that I'm guessing are expected to be pressed into the arms, then the two piece poly bushings into which a bolt retainer is pressed into. The fit seems pretty tight for the metal sleeves.

[secretmachine]

yeah, they need to be pressed. don't go crazy with the grease or they will hydraulically push the poly out the other end. best way to do it is to press the out sleeve into the arm, then pop the poly's into the outer sleeve, then press in the center sleeve, with only a light coating of grease. use a cup shape on the bottom or the poly can also push out its edges once released from the press. dont mix up the 818's and 819's, and don't forget to use the new washers on the outers.

[Redgy77]

I just saw this car listed on CL. Are you selling? I was following your project.

[secretmachine]

don't sell! if you need any help, hit me up!

[bandeezy]

Was entertaining the idea, so I posted the car to see if there's any interest. Main restriction right now is space (the garage is pretty cramped to work in and is the result of a lot of my frustration), finding the shifter assembly or enough parts to build it for a reasonable price, time, and motivation. Maybe once it gets a bit warmer and the garage becomes a bit more bearable, I'll start working on the car again.

Thanks secretmachine, I'll reach out should I need any help.

[chedeng]

yeah, they need to be pressed. don't go crazy with the grease or they will hydraulically push the poly out the other end. best way to do it is to press the out sleeve into the arm, then pop the poly's into the outer sleeve, then press in the center sleeve, with only a light coating of grease. use a cup shape on the bottom or the poly can also push out its edges once released from the press. dont mix up the 818's and 819's, and don't forget to use the new washers on the outers.

I need to refresh all bushing on my car so I am considering red strongflex. Can you do this by just dropping the subframe? I saw a video it can be done but bushing weren't polys. Since the way you describe the installation is multi-steps (instead of pressing the whole bushing as a unit), would this be easier to do? I just don't want to remove the whole sub frame if I don't have to.

[secretmachine]

the new polys are easy to put in, the old rubber is hard to remove, i don't think you can squeak by just on dropping the subframe a little unless you have the actual special tool to remove them. the fronts need to come out upward, you'll need lots of room to work if you have to use a regular 3-jaw puller, or use fire like some dodo's out there.

[chedeng]

the new polys are easy to put in, the old rubber is hard to remove, i don't think you can squeak by just on dropping the subframe a little unless you have the actual special tool to remove them. the fronts need to come out upward, you'll need lots of room to work if you have to use a regular 3-jaw puller, or use fire like some dodo's out there.

Fire is good but not near the gas tank . Thanks for the info.