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Thread: 2.3-16 Project

  1. #61
    Looking good

  2. #62
    When I bought the car it already had an aftermarket radiator held in on the bottom by ONE ziptie, and on the top by... the upper radiator hose. I'm a fan on non-invasive work, so I opted to use the factory mounts. I turned some stock down to fit the lower bushings and fabbed up and welded some aluminum brackets:

    Everything is together, brakes bled, clutch... not bled. Couldn't get it to fully bleed. New master and slave are ordered. Hindsight is 20/20. Should have just replaced the slave while it was out of the car!

  3. #63
    I bought a crows foot and ground down part of a 3/8 extension for the flare nut (works well), and started to drain the fluid via the clutch bleed screw. After a few minutes of a slow drain I thought "I've heard of a 'gravity bleed'... let's see if that works". I'd never tried it before, so I just tightened up the bleed screw... and I have a clutch again. Can't believe it.

  4. #64
    Little update. I've put about 50 miles on the rebuild so far. Running great! Thanks to you lot. The details have been invaluable. Hoping to take it to Radwood tomorrow, despite the lackluster paint (in places).

    Car was too loud to enjoy driving, and I didn't like the idea of driving an hour to the show with its Magnaflow glasspack and Hooker muffler. :/

    2.5" 304 stainless right from the stock 2-1 merge on back. Vibrant resonator and muffler, Magnaflow cat.

    This was my first big TIG stainless project. I for sure got "sunburn" on my arms.

    V-band, welded while assembled for heatsink

    ACE had stainless eye bolts! ...welded to a stainless u-bolt clamp:

    Finished the final bead when it had just started raining. Tip is a simple 3" (gee thanks, Vibrant) 90* bend from Stainless Bros. Really high quality piece.

    I hope to get some audio soon!

  5. #65
    Crap... Not running great. Took it to Radwood. On the way back I started having a problem that seems common, but every thread I find on the subject never comes to a positive conclusion.

    Essentially, it bogs under load. Anything more than 1/4-1/3 throttle and it falls on it's face. Seems like a fuel delivery issue? The car starts up just fine. Idles great (idle up functions work), cruises fine.

  6. #66
    If it's bogs down during WOT than it could be running too rich.

  7. #67
    Or lean
    1993 190e 3.0

  8. #68

    Top of #1:

    Appx 150 miles on these parts.... And likely a little wet since I ran it for 10 seconds to pull into the garage.
    Last edited by 3f05q; 07-22-2019 at 07:52 PM.

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by glo86 View Post
    If it's bogs down during WOT than it could be running too rich.
    Other way around if it bogs it’s lean.

    The car will feel good even with 9.0:1 afr. A little slow getting up to redline but it will get there.

    When it’s too lean it won’t go anywhere

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 3f05q View Post

    Top of #1:

    Appx 150 miles on these parts.... And likely a little wet since I ran it for 10 seconds to pull into the garage.
    Plug looks lean but why so wet? Is that oil or mixture of oil and gas?

  10. #70
    Cold start, pull into garage, turn off. Ran for all of 10 seconds, so I'm almost certain it's simply fuel. Gotta wash down those cylinder walls! <sarcasm>

    I'm ordering a Haltech Elite 1500 today. As much as I love a good puzzle...

    I had planned on it this winter, but I'll move it up!

  11. #71
    I have almost every part acquired, most fabricated, and nearly everything planned... except...

    Where to put the ECU and what to do with the old one. What, besides the engine, does the factory ECU manage? If I pull the engine harness and ECU, do I lose anything else? Does the factory engine harness carry any wiring NOT associated with the engine?

    Related pics...

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  12. #72
    Can’t help you with regard to your question but I’m keen to know the answer. Also, nice bungs.

  13. #73
    you'll lose your AC control. FPR runs your pumps and o2 sensor, klima relay receives pressure info from receiver / dryer sensor but needs engine temp and tach from ecu to run the ac. you can send your tach info to the dash by tapping the green wire in the FPR, part of that goes to ecu and ezl but is no longer needed on standalone mgmt. ive posted pics of the FPR wiring in my build threads.
    1984 2.3 8v Lorinser - Drift/track competition - "Grønne Pige"
    1984 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Sent to Graveyard - "Steve"
    1985 2.3-16 ECE 5-Speed - Daily - "Darkwing"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM 5-Speed - Donor - "Rusty Trumpet"
    1986 2.3-16 NAM Auto - Basket Case - "Phönix"
    1987 2.3-16 NAM VEMS EFI 5-Speed - Track/Canyon - "Dimples"

  14. #74
    A little preview. Bench testing my "home" sensor...

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  15. #75
    Trying my hand at documenting the install via video, but here's a photo:

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  16. #76
    Just went through the whole thread, any updates?

  17. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
    Just went through the whole thread, any updates?
    Yes! Will be posting more soon. Wiring is very nearly done and I'm hoping for a first start this weekend. Things like DBW, tach, CEL (using the O2 light), and cooling fans are integrating well!

  18. #78
    Wiring nearly done:

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #79
    I would not be comfortable with that plastic thermostat housing on a 16v. Just my personal experience.
    1987 201.034 - € spec 5sp. Blauschwarz- Hermann.
    1992 124.051 - 6sp man. Iceblau - Gretel
    1992 124.090 - 4sp auto Malachit Grün - Beatrix
    1987 107.048 - 4sp auto Signalrot - Stella
    2012 212.074 - 7sp mct-speedshift Diamantweiß - Klaus
    numerous other non-MB's
    MB exit lounge: 1989 201.035, 1987 201.029, 1987 126.039, 1972 107.023

  20. #80
    It's on my list. I have one, but some knucklehead tapped it for an NPT thread for a temp sender... so I need to re-drill/tap for a banjo.

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